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Cheers!
Peter LaFrance



Wednesday, May 21, 2008

“ Some People carrying signs mostly say “Hooray for Our Side””

Salutations,

This morning I have been reviewing some of the beer-blog reports on the SAVOR event in Washington, DC this last week. The theme of “over booked” topped the two also-ran themes of “too expensive” and “they ran short of food/beer/space”. One blog in particular caught my eye when it linked to two more sites that had different takes on the same subject… snobs.

I believe that this “snobbism” is a symptom of a disease that infects almost all aspects of life in these United States. The vicious political battles being fought are just the tip of the topic. Should I venture too far from New York City perception of “us” real Americans vs.” them” elitist New Yorkers is palpable. Outside the major urban areas the “illegal immigrant” issue has large sections of this country tied in knots. World-wide, the friction between countries that throw away millions of tons of food and countries lacking any food at all is a bomb waiting to go off. On the malt beverage (beer) front the stakes are not as high but are just a fractious.

Craft Beer vs. Mega-brewers, all-grain homebrewers vs. extract brewers, and “extreme” brewers vs. “to-style” brewers are just a few of the factions bickering in the beer world.

When I put my “food writer” hat on it had best be made of Kevlar. In culinary cosmos the battle between the mega-food producers (I cannot be convinced to call them farmers) and sustainable growers is joined by the “Slow Food” movement and the anti-fois gras people. This is not to leave out the vegan vs. carnivore campaign or the whole-milk brie vs. Cheese Whiz® scuffle.

What do I make of all this? I believe that the inflation of differences to the point of confrontation illustrates only one thing – we live in a nation of smug, self-centered egoists that want it all and want it now!

It is no secret that food priced to sell to those who can least afford it is designed to render profit for the producer rather than nutrition for the consumer. It is no secret that $5.00 spent on beans, tomatoes (yes, from a can) chicken parts and onions can provide two meals (at least) for family of four. It is no secret that $5.00 spent at a processed food provider (read “fast food”) will supply that same family with two large cups of sweet soft drinks, two processed sandwiches and two envelopes of deep fried potatoes. It is also no surprise that the latter is more the norm for impoverished families than the former. It is no mystery why six-packs of beer or soft drinks sold at $5.00 flies out of convenience stores while milk is ignored. It is no mystery why a dozen white sports sox made in Asia and sold at $5.00 outsells better made and longer lasting merchandise manufactured locally. Most of this country is financially squeezed to the point that there is little sympathy for “sustainable farming” and “craft beer.”

Should you have a chance to visit, or attend a James Beard event you will find the answer to the viability of slow-food and sustainable foods. That answer is that those who are wrapped up in the issues are comprised of those who can afford to spend $15.00 a pound for grass-fed beef and $10.00 a pint for their organic beer.

This results in the rise of factions that foster friction rather than understanding. While I applaud the efforts of small brewers and farmers to give back to their communities through civic programs that enhance the lives of the less fortunate I find the “us” vs. “them” mentality persists. I believe it persists because most of us want it to. People want, dare I say it, need to feel unique. Unable to affect daily lives in any real way people cling to icons and symbols.

Financially strapped and stressed out, the easy-way is the only alternative. Fast food is easier than spending the time cooking the meal (if there is the time). Price is the answer to almost all consumer purchases. The majority of consumers to not have the luxury of paying the price for crafted anything. Those who can afford to seek out the crafted food, beer or clothing, who can afford to support “Slow Food” and James Beard Foundation can afford to sneer at consumers of mass-produced products… And that’s why they call them “snobs.”

What is the answer to the warped perception created by this situation? The answer is to drop the “in your face” attitudes that is perceived as “snobbism”. To paraphrase Ronald Regan, “Take down your signs that say “Hooray for our side!” and replace them with a hand shake and an attempt to communicate on a personal level. (Almost every brewer who meets the definition of “craft brewer” knows the routine… sales are made one bottle at a time, one person at a time and has to be maintained.)

A few weeks ago I met with Sam Calgione and Marnie Old, the co-authors of “He said Beer… She said Wine.” (http://www.beerbasics.com/009 003/009 003 beerbasics visits.htm ) Their book takes the beer vs. wine snobbism and actually transforms the battle into a love fest. (Don’t tell them I said that.) The interview ended up confirming that situation. “Beer” folks have a lot to learn from “wine” people and “wine” people have a lot to learn from “beer” people. Now if these two can do that there is a glimmer of hope for the rest of the situation.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

A taste of… Orlio Organic Common Ale


orlio organic common ale 08.JPG

South Burlington,

Vermont

USA

Preface:

The good folks at Orlio/Magic Hat have, once again, sent me a sample of their Orlio Organic common ale. It arrived well protected. (Memo to me… How “green” is their special effort shipping?)

While the sample returns to serving temperature, after a week in my refrigerator, I will make no effort to either read the included informational material or my own tasting notes from last year.

I have a difficult time rationalizing the extra effort involved with brewing beer from ingredients insured to be nurtured, harvested and processed without the involvement of processed chemicals. If there is a biochemical comparison showing significant differences between what is called organic beer and the flagship brand from the brewery where the organic beer is produced I would very much like to see it.

The ability, over time, of the human system to render, retain and be affected by insignificant trace elements is empirically evident. However, a carbonated malt beverage produced from organic commodities has not yet been declared significantly different from carbonated malt beverage products produced from commodities exposed to processed chemicals during growth, harvest, and processing for market and use in brewing.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

This is a burnished copper colored brew that is relatively effervescent and is crowned with a very light tan Sandy Rocky head composed of small to medium sized bubbles. The lace on the glass is most becoming.

Aroma:

Almost as soon as I opened this bottle, there was a sense of hop that bordered on the citric. The first sensation is almost of raspberry. The second sensation is very citric almost between grapefruit and Mandarin. Between lip and sip there is no suggestion as to either the sweetness nor the bitterness of this beer.

Mouth feel:

There is a medium mouth feel to this beer, as it is neither overt carbonated nor spiked with a particularly aggressive hop.

Flavor:

The flavors in this beer take a great deal of time to develop. The first whit cool refreshing sensations are overwhelmed by neither the hops nor the malts in this beer. The malts offer more of a refreshing sensation rather than a sweet sensation. On aspiration, the hop flavors develop from an almost mandarin orange through fresh mowed hay, and finishing on the palate, as more of a metallic sensation than a bitter effect.

Finish:

This beer is no uninvited guest. It is welcoming. It is not offensive, and it leaves before it gets stale.

Comments:

To these tasting notes, I have little real understanding of the effect of organic commodities, and produce in the production of beer. Therefore the origins of the ingredients to this brew were inconsequential to me. What was important to me was the combination and interplay of the flavors of this brew.

Because the word is considered a derogatory term in many circles I hesitate to use the word light. However, in the following I do believe it is perfect in context… This is a fine of light ale.

The brewery Site: http://www.orlio.net/

What others say…

RateBeer:

http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/orlio-organic-common-ale/72487/4979/

Beer Advocate:

http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/15997/36368

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

A taste of… Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Fresh Hop Ale


Sierra Nevada Southern Harvest 2008.JPG

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.

Chico, CA

USA

Preface:

After seeing their press announcement on the release of this brew I contacted the folks at Sierra Nevada and received this sample for tasting.

Appearance:

This brew has a bright red copper color and is topped with a very rocky head of medium to large bubbles that produce a very light mocha colored head.

Aroma:

The first impression was of citric notes. Then there were impressions of the aroma of a newly mowed lawn, followed by a touch of roasted malt at the very end.

Mouth feel:

There is a medium mouth feel, with only a slight flavor spike imparted by the carbonation.

Flavor:

That moment between lip and to sip is the first time that you become very aware of the hop contents of this beer. It’s a very subtle almost metallic sensation. What malt flavor there is seems to be embarrassed by a very brash combination of barnyard and butter brought to the table by the hops. The “barnyard” is not attributable to the yeast as in having wild yeast in the fermentation. It is more exactly, reminiscent of fresh baled hay just after it has been broken up for feeding. As for the butter sensation, it is not a diacetyl, rather coming closer to a hard toffee candy flavor.

Finish:

The finish is where the malt has its most impressive moment. Still in the supporting role, it allows the hops to finish off without appearing too brutal.

Comments:

It is now evident to what links the American Brewer will go to provide hops for its beer. The obvious admonition that “necessity is the mother of invention” is something that I am sure small Brewers will be hearing for at least the next two years. It appears the people at Sierra Nevada have found a unique answer and developed a unique product. Should the New Zealanders find another market for their hops in the United States, removing the unique characteristic of this brew, Sierra Nevada be quite pleased with this product.

The brewery Site: http://www.sierranevada.com/

What others say…

RateBeer:

http://www.ratebeer.com/Ratings/Beer/Beer-Ratings.asp?BeerID=86979

Beer Advocate:

http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/140/42533