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Peter LaFrance

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Fritz and Fade

“We’re all friends in fermentation.”

The above quote, spoken by Fritz Maytag, at a beer tasting event at Windows on The World, has been a motto of mine for years. And so it has been no surprise to me that a good many food and beverage pundits have focused a flood of tasty comments on the particular enjoyment of a piece of good cheese and a glass of good beer.

This brings a philosophical focus to the discussion. What are a good beer, good cheese, and good food? I am called a heretic by many of my beer loving friends for insisting that Budweiser is well-made beer. I am not saying it is a tasty beer. I am saying it is well made.

Another example tests the “well-made” against the “good” is the above illustration. Basically is simply gives you an idea of what a piece of Fritz Maytag’s blue cheese looks like and the bottle of a particular beer that I chose to drink. I can tell you that both the beer and the piece of cheese were no more than 50°F as presented.

To appreciate the rest of these notes you’ll simply have to trust me, my subjective sense of smell and taste, and ability to express those in an understandable way.

Tasting notes:

The cheese was rich and creamy, with a pungent flavor that was slightly metallic. In that aspirational moment before a sip of beer, there was a sharp spike of flavor that was slightly saline.

The cool beverage immediately featured the flavor of deeply roasted malt followed by a caramel and prune flavor.

When the two flavor profiles came together the creaminess of the cheese and the deep roasted flavors of the brew balanced each other in a sensational way. The slightly metallic flavor of the cheese combined with the caramel and prune flavor smoothing each of the flavors into one palate cleansing sensation that kept the creaminess from becoming cloying.

The range of flavors brought to the table by both the beer and the cheese was impressive. However, the balance of flavors resulted in not in confusion but with satisfaction.

Believe it or not!

Monday, December 13, 2010

A taste of… Long Trail Centennial Red

Long Trail Brewing Company
5520 U.S. 4
Bridgewater Corners, VT 05035
(802) 672-5011

Preface: This pint was purchased at 1335 hours of 5 December 2010 at The Waterfront Alehouse in Brooklyn, NY for $6.50 (US) These notes have not been influenced by reading promotional material or any other review of this brew. I am including this preface to inform the reader of any and all circumstances that might be conceived of a creating a biased review or a conflict of interest regarding the choice of words used in the following review. I could go on and on with semi-legal jargon but I guess you will just have to trust me eh?

The following are my tasting notes:

Appearance: A deep amber colored brew topped with a solid, dense thin light brown creamy head.

Aroma: The first impression is a but of bubblegum that builds from a caramel base. The second visit adds more caramel notes. The third impression, and the moment between sip and lip, included no surprise flavors or aromatics.

Mouth feel: The chill, sturdy carbonation and slight carbolic acid spike added to the mouth feel.

Flavor: A sharp burnt sugar tang develops into a slight bubblegum note that slides into a bitter impression that has more than a bit of a floral hint. The second taste, as the brew warms up, has more of a caramel accent that pushes the bubblegum out of the way and lets the floral hints speak up. The third sip let the caramel and bitter notes get better acquainted in a good way.

Finish: The finish is more of an olfactory echo than the expected flavor impressions.

Comments: This is a roasted food beer... beef, potatoes and Brussels Sprouts...

The Brewery: http://www.longtrail.com/

What others say:

BeerAdvocate: http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/94/63343

RateBeer: http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/long-trail-brewmaster-series-centennial-red/131307/

Thursday, December 9, 2010

The Gift of Beer


It is the holiday season... the time for gift giving. Choosing a particular gift can be difficult, in particular, that special something for friends and family. Should you have the reputation of being a beer aficionado you can get away with the gift of the beer. In fact it is often anticipated.

While there is a great deal of consideration placed on the selection of the beer and the food, might I suggest that pairing the person to the beer is much more important.

I offer the following suggestions:

Your brother-in-law the beer geek: I would suggest all holiday ale, in the largest sized bottle you can find, perhaps a growler... signed with a sharpie by the Brewer.

Your brother-in-law's wife not a beer geek: This is perhaps the easiest one... a 250 mL bottle of the Belgian Kriek beer. Suggest that she serve it in champagne flutes and guests will be wondering what the wonderful wine that they are serving is called.

Your husband: India Pale Ale is just the right thing for this gift. It tells him that he has a sense of adventure, knows what a good beer tastes like, and carries with it the image of the real he-man.

Your wife: This choice involves more quantity than quality. The object of this gift is that it is a four pack rather than a six pack or a large bottle. this shows that you truly care which are not trying to get her drunk.

Your in-laws: If they are teetotalers, a bottle of non-alcoholic cider. If they have been known to indulge, at 250 mL bottle of a Russian Imperial Stout, or a barley wine. Tell them that it is not for immediate consumption, rather it is to be saved and savored at another time. There are affirmative a psychological reasons for offering it that way. Believe me...

Good friends: If you are a homebrewer there's no question it should be a bottle or two of that beer you have been saving for a special occasion. If you're not, should they be beer geeks, you have already heard of at least one brewery that they appreciate particularly. If they are not beer geeks, a mixed six pack of some of the best known a "craft Brewers" might turn them into beer geeks.

For yourself: Visit your favorite watering hole, order your favorite beer, and then order one for the person sitting next to you and wish them a happy holiday!


Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Chef Peter Davis talks Fresh & Honest about beer…

Fresh & Honest

Food from the farms of New England in the kitchen of Henrietta’s Table.

By Peter Davis

This last March I had a chance to chat by phone with Chef Davis about beer and how he uses it at Henrietta’s Table in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

As a published author I can appreciate a chance to promote my book and know the short shelf-life of new-book publicity.

And so it is with great pleasure that I found the following interview stashed in my “C” drive.

The pleasure came not only from finding work I had forgotten but also in being able to present a book that presents a level headed look at how a chef is using local produce and provisions as well as local brews. My first question was perhaps obvious…

How do you use beer in the kitchen there at Henrietta’s Kitchen?

Chef Davis: We use it a lot of different ways because we have a lot of smaller breweries in our area. So we try to figure ways to incorporate beer into our recipes. We can also encourage the staff to suggest beer at the table to go with the dishes in the same way that they suggest the wine.

I knew that, particularly in the braised ribs, there is a reduction by two thirds… that can certainly bring in a bitter note to that dish.

Chef Davis: The other ingredients, the mirepoix and baked vegetables, limit some of the bitterness and smooths it out. Some bitterness is not a bad idea. We go for different flavors across-the-board. Sometimes people enjoy little bitterness.

Is cooking with beer is this something you’ve done all along?

Chef Davis: Yes I’ve been doing it for quite a while. I probably started like to finish chili with beer. Right at the end of the cooking process when it comes off the stove I liked too add a little bit of beer into the bowl chili at that point without reducing it or without cooking at all. It adds some flavor to it … It’s hard to describe.

Have you always been a beer aficionado?

Chef Davis: I like beer… I like to try different beers. I like what’s been happening over the last 15 years or so, with the new beers. People have more of an awareness of what they like they don’t have to take just the same type of beer. People are willing to try new flavors and that’s a good thing.

Are you lager man or an ale man?

Chef Davis: I’m an ale-man I guess I’m not into berries or blueberries of that sort of thing.

What are your favorite recipes that you use beer in?

Chef Davis: In the book there is a Pale Ale Braised Short Ribs recipe but there is also the Maple stout brisket I particularly like…

Maple-Stout Marinade

Makes 8 cups


12 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 cup maple syrup

4 cups stout

1 cup red wine vinegar

4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

8 bay leaves

4 teaspoons Tabasco sauce

2 cups onion, finely diced


In a medium saucepan, mix the mustard and maple syrup together.

Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil over high heat.

Reduce heat and let simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Let cool before using.

Maple Stout-Marinated Beef Brisket

Serves 8


1 4-pound beef brisket

4 cups Maple Stout

Maple-Stout Marinade (see above)


Soak the brisket in the marinade for 24 hours.

Remove the brisket from the marinade and grill over low heat to brown on all sides, being careful not to burn.

Remove from the grill and put in a pan on a rack and cover tightly.

Preheat oven to 275 degrees.

Place the brisket in the oven and cook for 6 hours, removing the top and basting with the marinade every hour.

When the brisket is tender, remove from the oven and let rest lightly covered for 30 minutes. Slice the brisket thinly across the grain and drizzle with the pan drippings.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Brew Masters taps "ta henket"

Left to right: Dogfish Head Master Brewer Floris Delee, Dr. Patrick Mc Govern and Sam Calagione

Last night, at the Discovery Times Square King Tut Exhibition, Sam Calagione had a first taste of “ta henket” brew.

“ta henket” is based on a recipe deduced from an investigation of beer and brewing in Egypt, over 6,000 years ago, documented by the Discovery Channel as part of their Brew Masters programming.

The brew is the result of relics found by Dr. Patrick Mc Govern, Dogfish Head Master Brewer Floris Delee and Sam Calagione. Dr. McGovern’s research in molecular archeology at the University of Pennsylvania was the basis for determining the basic ingredients of the brew. The next step was a trip to Egypt for hands-on research that involved hieroglyphics, and gathering indigenous micro flora and yeast. (All of this recorded for the Discovery Channel presentation.

The following are my tasting notes:

Appearance: Light straw-colored slightly opaque brew with a bit of carbonation and a loosely knit head of off-white foam built from medium to small bubbles.

Aroma: A citric tang was the first impression, and then a sweeter note introduced an herbal base. The second impression was slightly more herbal.

Mouth feel: For a brew of 5% abv there was lightness to the body that was not unpleasant or unanticipated after the aromatics.

Flavor: The first impression was a flavor of oregano. The second sip brought up a citric touch. The third sip was an interesting balance between the two with an accent on the oregano.

Finish: There was a dry note that left a refreshing sensation. No hops here…

Note: Sam told us that they used an herbal mix called Za’atar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zaatar ) and coriander.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Beer and Fried Frenched Potatoes

The above illustration is a picture of an as close to the perfect deep fried frenched potato.

You, and spell-check, noticed the obvious mistake in the preceding sentence didn’t you?

Sorry folks… what you call French fries did not come from France in the first place. (They are a specialty of the Belgian cuisine.) When prepared in Metropolitan France, or in any French speaking part of the world, the preparation is known simply as “frites”… fries.

So how did the name come about? The answer is found in the usual ability of settlers of the British colonies to grasp the nuances of communicating in more than one language. At least two of the revered founding fathers of what is now the United States (Jefferson and Franklin) actually conversed in the French language. Later representatives of the new country, in a tradition that continues to this day, lacked that skill. And thus miss-interpretation abounded. One documented instance illustrates the inability to translate even the English language.

In cooking notes written in the English language, published in the 1700’s, there was a dish of potatoes sliced into long thin pieces (a kitchen knife technique known as “Frenching”) and fried in hot oil until crisp. The dish was documented as “fried frenched potatoes”. In defense of the folks at that time, cooking was very much an oral tradition even with trained chefs.

What does any of this have to do with beer?

I can think of no beer not enhanced by the accompaniment of a serving of perfectly done fried frenched potatoes.

The illustration above does more than any words I can think of to illustrate that “perfect” example.

What do I see?

I see a slice of potato in an ideal shape to render the tuber a morsel of nutty fluffy interior lightly embraced by a crisp almost caramelized brown coat.

These flavors individually would enhance most brown ale, together they allow heavier beers, flavored beers and barley wines to refresh the pallet for more of the flavors of the potato treat.

Should you prefer the lighter side of life the lagers of the world all enjoy the especially nutty flavors of the fried frenched potato.

Is it the perfect snack for beer drinkers?

Stay tuned…

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Beer... How special?

Exactly what is a good beer worth?

It’s worth what people are willing to pay.

At the end of September New York City celebrated craft beer week. At least 200 bars pubs taverns and restaurants were involved. There were also at least a dozen special events scheduled that involved everything from cask beer to brewery tours.

I made a special effort, and spent $65, to attend one of the events called Get Real New York. The event was a two-day celebration of cask beers, separated into two tasting sessions each day. There would be at least 80 different cask beers available at each tasting. There would also be a generous selection of foods to sample supplied by New York restaurants and retailers.

It was a warm summer Saturday afternoon, perfect for standing in line for about a half-hour waiting for the doors to open. I was impressed by how well behaved to the crowd was, and also noted that I was probably old enough to be the grandfather of most people standing there. Once they opened the doors tickets were collected identifications checked in a very smooth manner. For some reason I wasn’t asked to prove how old I was.

The tasks that were available were prolific and prestigious. The servers were able, friendly, and knew how to pour beer. It took less than an hour to sit my way through just under 30 beers. During that time I also had a chance to taste some tasty open faced sandwiches, cheeses, and other “finger food”. As I wandered around the very large space, sipping beer and tasting food, I took the opportunity to talk to the people who were serving the beer and food. One of the questions I asked was “How many folks my age have you seen today?” Nine out of 10 times the answer was “None.”

That was when the thought crossed my mind, “Is the appreciation of cask beer limited to those between the ages of 25 and 35?” The obvious answer to that question is, “No.”

So why were there so few of my generation at this event? The answer has nothing to do with beer. It has to do with perceived value. Get ready, here it comes…

When I was the age of most of the people at that event $65 would’ve been enough to feed for starving college students for a week. That same amount of money would have been enough to keep those college students in beer for the same amount time. Should I ask anyone of my generation if they would be willing to pay $65 for three pints of beer and a small plate of food I would be providing them with a humorous story that they can tell the rest of their lives.

On the other hand, I can issue that there were at least a couple of thousand people attended the event… and gladly paid $65 each.

Perhaps I should reevaluate the value of a good beer… never mind, I can’t afford to.