Why imported beers are so special…

Imported beers on the other hand offer an entirely different type of lifestyle enhancement. First off, there is the assumption that if the beer has been imported especially a great distance it must be something special or it wouldn’t have been worth all the cost and effort. It is assumed that the additional cost of shipping is a necessary overhead and influence on the price of imported beer. The fact that it is imported indicates that there is a demand, and if there is a demand for this particular beer it must be something special.

In the early 1990s there was a beer exported from the province of Saskatchewan that went by the name of “Grizzly”. The beer was packaged in 12 ounce crown capped green glass bottles with a front label that prominently displayed a grisly reared up on its hind legs. One of the two major Canadian brewing companies produced this beer. It was quite simply an effervescent relatively low alcohol malt beverage. In New York City, and particularly the borough of Queens, where there is a large Korean community, this beer sold tens of thousands of cases. The reason it sold tens of thousands of cases had very little to do with what was in the bottle. It had a great deal to do with the position that the grizzly bear has in Korean culture.

Every year at the end of September and the beginning of October you can expect to find St. Pauli Girl Oktoberfest on tap at any place that favors this particular German Festival. Satisfied to toast this event with only an authentic German beer, party goers across the United States will hoist a stein or two of this particular product. Should the truth be known? The truth is that the beer is actually brewed in Germany, however St. Pauli Girl is not a brand sold in Germany. And if it was it would have a very specific market. The fact is, in Germany, a “St. Pauli Girl” is a prostitute.

And so the question is what makes an imported beer so special?

An imported beer is particularly special to someone who has been to where the beer is brewed and is aware of the social cultural and culinary importance of that beer. This consumer is someone who has tasted the beer at the source and is probably aware of the brewery’s history. The involvement and associations that this consumer brings to the table cannot be underestimated.

And imported beer is also particularly special to someone who wishes they have been where the beer is brewed. Romantic notions concerning the brewery, in the area of a particular country that it comes from, are quite often enhanced by the labeling, packaging, and advertising of that product. Should one care to buy into the ambiance created by the advertising the sounds of Alpine yodeling should accompany the opening of every Bavarian beer. The popularity of these beers can only be an indication a great many people have very sensitive ears and are able to hear Alpine yodeling halfway around the world, or that the beer itself is particular enough to hold the attention of the consumer. Considering the product that dominates the North American beer market, any additional or unusual flavor that is part of an imported beers flavor profile will serve to draw attention to itself.

Finally, the fact that brewers go to such effort to brew beer for export gives the curious consumer at least one good reason to try a particular beer. The fact that some beers are considered important in some cultures results in an active ex-patriot market. And in this culture, a super premium price naturally assures us super premium product.

And that’s why imported beers are so special…

Why “Craft Beer” is special…

At the opposite end of the beer spectrum from mass-produced light golden colored pilsners style lager beer can be found a category of beers called “craft beers”. And if you think NASCAR fans exhibit a high degree of brand identification it will almost boggle your imagination to experience the brand identification of the beer geek.

Before that example of fanaticism is explored it is important to determine exactly what “craft” beers are and where they came from.

Responsibility for the little bastards and I use the term specifically, as the first small breweries were exactly that, has been laid at the feet of three patriarchs: Bert Grant (Yakima Brewing and Malting Co.), Fritz Maytag (Anchor Brewing Co.), and John R. McAuliffe (New Albion). These stalwart pioneers epitomized exactly what “craft beer” would become famous for. All three were entrepreneurs, independent, and slightly eccentric.

From the beginning the Holy Grail was English Pale Ale. There were two reasons for this. The first reason was that many people had gone to Europe and tasted British beer for the first time and discovered pubs. Upon returning home they found the equivalent sadly lacking. The second reason is that the entire brewing process for ale is almost half of what it is for lager style beer and therefore a lot less expensive. With the exception of Fritz Maytag’s Anchor Brewery most of the first small breweries, by then they had a name “microbrewery”, were developed, maintained and operated on shoestring budgets. Their advertising department, marketing department, shipping department, accounts receivable and payable department, and brewmaster were usually the same person with at least one or two friends who knew something more than they did regarding at least one or two of the aforementioned departments.

This meant that not only did the restaurateurs, beverage managers, and bartenders get to meet the person who actually made the beer; more often as not there was a bar full of impressionable customers. The art of comparative beer tasting was not lost on these pioneers. The flavors and aromas of fresh ale are distinctly different from what had traditionally been thought of as premium beer. The colors were darker, and the hop and malt flavors used enthusiastically rather than hidden in the background. The freshness of the product, enhanced flavors and aroma, and the opportunity to meet the person who made the beer were all value enhancers that build an almost fanatical sense of brand identification.

While this was happening there was a growing interest, among members of the counterculture that found fulfillment in communal living and sustainable farming, in the magic and art of brewing beer for themselves and friends. Soon mainstream, or semi-mainstream, homebrewers were riding the coattails of the folks who fermented wine at home.

There were two types of people essentially that drove the popularity of this hobby. The first for those who simply enjoyed making something that was special to them for any number of reasons. At the other end of the spectrum could be found a good number of people seeking relatively inexpensive relatively highly alcoholic beverages. The coexistence, cooperation and appreciation of each other as expressed by members of both of these essential groups have been truly remarkable thing.

The continued popularity of “craft beer” can be seen in the efforts of the major brewers to emulate the packaging and marketing of the smaller breweries. This emulation of the small breweries by the large mega-breweries cannot be blamed on the influence “beer geeks” alone.

The ability of larger numbers of consumers to convince themselves of the unique characteristics of small breweries based simply on label art and packaging has only be matched by those in the 1960s who smuggled Coors beer to the East Coast convinced that it was the product of a funky little brewery in the mountains of Colorado.

Of course the proliferation of flavors is also something that makes the small breweries stand out and outstanding. Many beer drinkers await the seasonal beers produced by the small breweries with as much enthusiasm as basketball fans have for the annual March Madness.

All of this of course builds intense brand identification. However, there is a peculiar universality involved in the appreciation of “craft beer”. This peculiar universality is that local beer is fresh beer and the freshest beer is local beer. Therefore, although you may dearly love your brand from your hometown, when you are somewhere else their local beer is the beer to call for.

In short, what makes “craft beer” so special? The basic answer is quite simply as stated above “local beer is fresh beer and the freshest beer is local beer”. The hands-on image that it evokes is also essential implying additional value. The ability of brewers to be creative in their flavor combinations is also an additional draw to these types of beer. Finally, it is the amount of knowledge the consumers of these products bring to the decision-making process when picking a beer from the lineup of “craft beer”. And then of course there is the price. Almost all of these beers are super premium priced some bottles of beer costing almost as much as a similar sized bottle of wine. All of these things go together to create a sense of exclusivity, of being something special, of being part of something special.

And that’s why “craft beer” is special…

Why this beer is special…

More than three quarters of the beer sold in this world is mass-produced light golden colored Pilsner style lager beer. The greatest percentage of this beer is produced and sold as a “popular priced” product. In some parts of the United States is called “yellow beer”. In some parts of Canada it is called “Farmer beer”. I prefer to be accurate and simply call at mass-produced lager beer. The rest of the market consists of approximately 20% stout and what is loosely defined as Brown ale, and 5% super-premium and what is called “craft beer”. These figures are not precise but they do reflect the entire worldwide market for fermented malt beverage… commonly known as beer.

The debate as to the various qualities of these products I shall leave to others. What I would like to address is the obvious domination of the mass-produced light golden colored pilsners style lager beer. Why are these beers so popular?

The most obvious answer to that question is that that style of beer is the least expensive to produce. This makes it the ideal beverage of choice for thrifty shoppers. The discrepancy in price between popular priced beers and premium priced beers often makes the choice even more obvious… especially to thrifty shoppers, if price is of premium concern to the shopper. This makes mass-produced light golden colored pilsners style lager beers very attractive to the average customer. Now that that choice has been made, it is up to the brand name to finalize the deal.

Anyone who has ever bought a can of beer knows exactly what’s inside. Should the occasion of the taste comparison between more than four different brands of beer ever arise the final results would probably surprise most beer drinkers. Given more than three choices, of beers that look and smell the same, there are an extraordinarily few beer drinkers that can actually tell the difference, let alone pick out there “favorite” brand.

Anyone who was ever purchased anything in a place other than a country store is well aware of the influence that brand names play in their choice of purchasing a product. A brief mention of the images of running water, tall trees, and steppingstones in a stream associated with for the virility enhancing pharmaceuticals should be sufficient to illustrate the degree of “lifestyle expectations” expected by consumers from consumer products.

This brings us back to mass produce light golden colored Pilsner style lager beer. Since we have established that the consumer knows exactly what is in the can of beer, it is up to the brand name to offer, and deliver lifestyle expectations. As a “well-earned reward”, the Miller Brewing Co. suggested its “High Life” was the ideal beer at the end of a working day. Rheingold Brewing Co. tried a series of television advertisements that associated it with at least seven different ethnic groups in the city of New York. That campaign in particular was a bit misguided considering that most of those ethnic groups were not well disposed towards each other. It is perhaps obvious that both of those advertising campaigns failed. This leaves us with the question, “what does the consumer really expect from a can of beer?”

The consumer expects unsurprising, refreshing, effervescent, slightly intoxicating chilled beverage. Brand identification gives them an identification that they can cling to in association with that beer.

There isn’t a single mass produced light-colored pilsners style lager beer produced in the United States of America that doesn’t position itself as an All-American beer. Therefore, if you drink that beer, you are an All-American. Most people would find it difficult to argue with that.

Should that brand name also be associated with a particular sport such as baseball football or automobile racing it allows for even more focused identification. In short, if you’re a NASCAR fan, and a particular brand of beer is plastered all over the front of four or five cars, your loyalties will probably be to that brand of beer. Since loyalties result in purchasing power that particular brand of beer is going to get your dollar.

And there you have it… offer a customer and inexpensive way to relieve their thirst and give them something to associate with that they already dearly love and you will be the proud possessor of their hard-earned dollars. And they’ll be more than happy to pay for allowing you to give them the lifestyle I’ve always wanted.

And that’s why this beer is special…

BEER DISCONNECT

Greetings,

The title of this piece may seem unusual but I assure you I have a great deal of confidence that there is a disconnect going on in the beer world in the United States in particular.

There is a disconnect when it comes to the person who looks forward to a “suitcase” of iced cans of refreshing brew and the person who looks forward to a special snifter of twelve-year-old Russian Imperial Stout from a jeroboam sized bottle. (Now how you can pour a four ounce snifter of beer from a bottle that would serve a platoon is beyond me… but that is the point of this piece.) These two poles are emphasized in media and myth. Both sides enjoy their reputations and encourage membership. However… as in politics and the real world…

The rather comfortable place between these two poles is inhabited by folks that like simple good food and beverages. These folks have no time for pretense. These folks have no intention of being intimidated by either cuisine, chef, bar manager or hostess. These are folks who want a comfortable place to celebrate life. They want to be able to enjoy friends, food and beverages that build friendships and eases introductions. Whether banter, political “conversations,” sensual side-glances, trade-talk, show-offs or keeping-in-touch… all of this is part of a shared experience that is essential. This is what has been defined in a number of sources as a “Local”…

When I first heard of this term in literature I was brought to mind of Victorian England and the romantic image of the “Pub”.

Since then I have learned that the “Local” is a special place and means different things to different people. What it means in the end is a place where you can feel special and enjoy life a little more than when you first walked in the door. This has nothing to do with the “Belgian Lace” on the Leffe glass. That would be a good thing if it was there of course. This has nothing to do with the traditional “two fingers” of foam that should crown most brews but never does because the customer will feel cheated. In essence it has to do with the best brew served in the best way and enjoyed with a good heart with good friends.

The “craft” kids and the “farmer brew boys” would better enjoy life and each other if the connection of good food brought them together understanding that they were talking about beer and well… there is no disconnect there.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

Jenlain and Zucchini Soup a la Jules

Yesterday was a beautiful, cool but not crisp, early autumn day. I indulged myself and set off walking from my abode in Brooklyn, across the Manhattan Bridge into Chinatown, strolled up Elizabeth Street to First Street, and sauntered across to First Avenue savoring the walk uptown (literally, there were at least a dozen restaurants and food shops that I noted deserved investigation) until I reached St. Marks Place. There I turned left and, halfway down the block, on the uptown side of the street, at number 65, stepped down onto the patio in front of Jules.

Jules and I have a history that deserves telling but that’s for another blog… this time I will limit myself to relating my experience involving a heated bowl of zucchini soup and half a liter of Jenlain Ambree Biere de Garde.

I will forgive the owner/chef/friend for icing the half liter stein with a rinse of ice cubes and cold water. I will forgive almost anything for a half liter of Jenlain Ambree Biere de Garde and an hour to enjoy it.

As there were no other customers at that hour and the staff was enjoying house lunch I had all afternoon to enjoy the brew once it warmed up a little. Until then it was educational to sip it slowly and experience the development of flavors as the biere reached cellar temperature. The nutty notes were kept from being cloying by the effects of the effective but non aggressive influence of the hops. These hops were the touch-point for the flavors of the soup.

The soup was a vegetarian, vegetable-stock based, rather thick, potage. Chips of zucchini, well past el dente but not puree, added a hearty texture to a fresh tasting stew, topped with slivers of Parmesan cheese and sliced fresh basil leaves. The latter two ingredients joined in a flavorful dance with the sweet of the malt but even more energetically with the hops of the Jenlain.

The real key was the kinship in flavors that happened between the fresh Basel and the hops of the beer.

When I get the recipe I’ll post it… until then…

Cheers!
Peter LaFrance

The Ethics of Beer

Greetings,

This morning the newspapers, and the blog-osphere, were filled with stories that had to do with ethics. One story brought ethics into question when it came to the BP oil spill. Charges of ethical indifference were being flung in California between a judge and any number of groups of people. Two Democratic senators are being investigated by the ethics committee of the Congress of the United States. All of this managed to fit on the front page of today’s New York Times. Two of the stories managed to find the top of the Google news. It seems to me it is an awful lot of interest in ethics today.

And so before I drink my first beer at lunch time I’m going to make a conscious effort to understand the ethics of drinking that particular beer.

First of all I’m going to contemplate the economic ethics. If I’m truly diligent I’ll have to review and consider the union contracts handled by the distributors of the beer I will be drinking. The raw ingredients of beer; hops, grain, and water all raise ethical problems. That is to say the ingredients do not have problems but the growing and obtaining of these ingredients certainly raise ethical questions.

In the western part of the United States control of water is very important particularly in the brewing of beer. Participating in projects that diverts water from one area to another raises natural ethical questions.

The ethical question of whether a farmer should be subsidized for not growing a particular type of grain or for growing a particular type of grain in particular, barley, should raise a great deal of interest. In an economy where water can be controlled as well as other economic properties the ability of one or two growers to control the price of hops could raise ethical questions. Here in the United States where everything seems to be transported by truck rather than by rail certain ethical and legal questions can certainly be raised should there be any involvement with particular corrupt labor unions.

I can already hear the arguments saying that this happens in every industry here in the United States or any other capitalist country. I am not arguing that fact. I’m not saying something is good and I’m not saying something is bad.

What I am saying is that 999% of the time I will sit here and drink a beer and not have a second thought about where that beer comes from or how the ingredients are grown where they are grown or who is involved in growing them. This raises the question of how involved should I be in the things that go on in the brewing, production, manufacturing and distribution of that beer. The same question could be asked of anything I purchase. However, because of my particular fondness for beer, it bothers me that I’ve not asked this question about beer before.

For a moment there I was almost caught up in the madness.

Drinking a beer has nothing to do with ethics it has to do with the fact that I enjoy drinking, quaffing, it when I am thirsty. It has to do with the fact that beer is slightly alcoholic and makes the world a little bit better place to live in because of that. It has to do with the fact that I like this particular flavor of beer to go with this particular style of cuisine.

Ethics? As far as throwing stones at the “unethical” I will take the advice of a wise man and not throw the first stone.

Cheers!

Call of The Wild

Greetings,

The brewers of Brussels, incorporating indigent yeasts and microbes in their fermenting process, produce a sour beer that defines the word “unique”. These beers are called Lambic and Geuze (a blend of Lambic beers aged in wood casks), and are famous world-wide today. These are truly the wildest beers available.

In the same way that the aromas of banana and cloves mark a wheat beer as Bavarian, the unique sour beer tang of the Lambic is the mark of the genuine item.

The appeal of these brews for mature the drinker is in the sharp sour tang that is the unique character of these brews. This flavor also acts as an aperitif and appetite enhancer. Younger drinkers perceive the flavors as exciting and relish the jolt the sour notes deliver. They also appreciate the rather hefty alcohol by volume content. This same “warmth” is also appreciated by the mature drinker as an after dinner treat when sipped contemplatively.

However, it is only the mature drinker, and only those over a certain age, who can remember beer before the Belgians.

Once, a Belgian bier was a rare treat. The bottled Belgian brews sought by United States beer drinkers in the late 1980’s were limited production products in bottles that were neither 12 oz. or 16 oz. or any other familiar size of beverage bottle. A good number of them didn’t even have labels… just different “coloured” crown caps. This drove importers to distraction when the brewers wouldn’t even consider bottle labels… let alone the labels as regulated by state and federal government agencies in the United States.

And then… a change in marketing “Belgian” beer when Stella Artois was introduced to the United States market.

But that’s another story…

Cheers!
Peter