A taste of… Buckbean Black Noddy

Reno,

Nevada

USA

Preface:

On Tuesday 10 June 2008, at the height of what local on-air-meteorologists have called a dangerous heat wave, a box of “Yeast Samples” arrived at my door. As you can (pun intended) see, it was canned beer. The packaging was less than successful in that all cans suffered a dent or two. However, none were punctured. They were also quite warm to the touch before they were refrigerated. I can (again pun intended) only hope this has not affected the product.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

The press announcement referred to Black Noddy as in the style of Bavarian Schwarzbier and it looks the part. My trusty mini-Maglite revealed that it is actually a deep garnet red brew. As you can see from the picture above, the head was thin. I can attest that the brew was poured rather cold. I will post an addendum with the results of a “proper pour.”

Aroma:

Naturally, a brew poured too cold will have its aromas impaired. However, even chilled, there is a chocolate malt aroma on first impression. The second impression is the first amplified.

The first impression is malty grain followed by whiff of orange scent that I might miss if I wasn’t looking for it. Finally a richer malt aroma greets the first sip.

Mouth feel:

There is a medium bodied brew. As noted on the can, 5.2% ABV is neither flabby nor over endowed.

Flavor:

There is dominance (evocative word to use when talking Teutonic) of chocolate malt here it is as close to style as I have experienced. Is it the real thing? I can boast of sampling the real thing in Munich in 1988 in the presence of folks who knew their schwarzbier.

Finish:

The presence of the hops is long lasting but is a joined by a flavor I associate with some of the citric herbal teas that were so popular in the late 1970’s.

Comments:

A dark beer as a “summer seasonal” brew is not usual. This is an exception. It has flavor that holds up to a chill and would work well in the BBQ environment as well as with traditional grilled/charred meat, poultry and vegetables.

The brewery Site: http://www.buckbeanbeer.com

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A taste of… Buckbean Original Orange Blossom Ale

Reno,

Nevada

USA

Preface:

Yesterday, at the height of what local on-air-meteorologists have called a dangerous heat wave, a box of “Yeast Samples” arrived at my door. As you can (pun intended) see, it was canned beer. The packaging was less than successful in that all cans suffered a dent or two. However, none were punctured.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

This is a bright new copper penny colored ale topped with a loosely knit tan head of medium to large bubbles. The head slowly falls and laces nicely.

Aroma:

The first impression is malty grain followed by whiff of orange scent that I might miss if I wasn’t looking for it. Finally a richer malt aroma greets the first sip.

Mouth feel:

There is a heftier mouth feel here than I expected… perhaps an extra measure of dextrin?

Flavor:

The dominant hop flavors strut their stuff early and with enthusiasm. As a partner, malt holds its own and actually leads about halfway through the dance. While this is developing the wall-flower is the “Orange Blossom”. The poor thing might be there to make hops look/taste extra “sweet” but that’s about it. A little less body and bronze color (slap my face and send me to the corner for some time out) and this would be an exceptional summer quaffing brew.

Finish:

The presence of the hops is long lasting but is a joined by a flavor I associate with some of the citric herbal teas that were so popular in the late 1970’s.

Comments:

As a “summer seasonal” brew I find it a bit robust. That said, I would be interested to pair this with red-sauce real smoked barbecue. This brew would also add a special dimension if used in a BBQ sauce. The intensity of the hops would marry well with the tomato and sugar while the orange might come out and impart a special bite all its own.

The brewery Site: http://www.buckbeanbeer.com

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A taste of… Magic Hat Hocus pocus 2008

Magic Hat Brewing Company

South Burlington,

Vermont

USA

Preface:

This is another one of the brews that the good folks at Magic Hat sent to me about a month ago. As it is soon to hit 100F in a few hours I thought it proper to taste this brew at this particular time.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

(The bottle was sweating more than me after half an hour out of the refrigerator…) This is a pale amber yellow, rather well-carbonated brew. The head is almost snow white and as rocky and lacy as could be hoped for.

The brilliant light amber color is pleasing to look at and foretells of a refreshing moment. The snow white rocky head foretells a malty for note.

Aroma:

The first impression is ephemeral and only hints at a vegetal sensation. The second visit introduced hints of citric tones. The third impression added more grassy accents.

Mouth feel:

The light body matches the color of the brew and satisfies that anticipation.

Flavor:

This brew follows a flavor profile similar to almost all of the “summer seasonal” brews I have tasted this year. Between lip and sip there is no suggestion as to neither the sweetness nor the bitterness of this beer. The hops are not major flavor players and seemed to be a blend of more types of hops that have been found in US beers in the past. I am assuming that this is due to the shortage in hops. The malt flavor is lightly roasted if at all and there seems to be a more pronounced house yeast presence in the flavor.

Finish:

There is a brief tussle between the grain and hop that ends in a draw. What lingers is more a request for MORE than a contemplative pause.

Comments:

Guess what? This is a wheat beer…

As with almost all the “summer seasonal” brews I have tried, I believe this is a fine session brew to be enjoyed with gusto and a bit chilled. If there was ever a brew perfect for adding to the enjoyment of grilled food this is the one. Crank up the grill and even your “veggie” friends will be able to enjoy this brew… unless they don’t like beer.

The brewery Site: http://www.magichat.net/

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A taste of… Deschutes Twilight Seasonal Ale

Bend,

Oregon

USA

Preface:

Friday last I received this sample of Deschutes “Twilight” seasonal ale from the good folks at Deschutes Brewery.

What makes it a “seasonal” is not quite clear, even after reviewing the attached promotional material. However, since I read the entire thing looking for the reason d’être I did learn that there are eight different hops varieties used, and dry-hopped with “…bold Amarillos.”

However, I have a special affection for twilight as a time of day, no matter the season, so I will cut these folks some slack.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

The brilliant light amber color is pleasing to look at and foretells of a refreshing moment. The snow white rocky head foretells a malty for note.

Aroma:

The first impression of the hops comes with the first sniff of the brew. After that it recedes into the background of bready barley.

Mouth feel:

There is a relatively light body for the color of this beer. That is not to say that the color of a brew preordains the particular mouth feel or flavor. That said, I expected a bit more body to the first impression.

Flavor:

Between lip and sip there is no suggestion as to neither the sweetness nor the bitterness of this beer. The blend of hops renders easy deconstruction. In my case I found it difficult to identify any particular hop introducing itself. The selection seems to have developed such a complex nature that it comes to be unique. The barley remains quietly in the background about as relaxed as I hoped that the brewers wanted it to be.

Finish:

At the very last trace of flavor there is a hint of bubble-gum… but that takes a long time to develop when this beer is being enjoyed as it should be… with gusto and not in a shy way.

Comments:

Following up on the brief “Finish” notes, I again note that I believe this is a fine session brew to be enjoyed with gusto and a bit chilled. If there was ever a brew perfect for adding to the enjoyment of grilled food this is the one. Crank up the grill and even your “veggie” friends will be able to enjoy this brew… unless they don’t like beer.

The brewery Site: http://www.deschutesbrewery.com/BrewPub/OnTap/5813.aspx

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“ Some People carrying signs mostly say “Hooray for Our Side””

Salutations,

This morning I have been reviewing some of the beer-blog reports on the SAVOR event in Washington, DC this last week. The theme of “over booked” topped the two also-ran themes of “too expensive” and “they ran short of food/beer/space”. One blog in particular caught my eye when it linked to two more sites that had different takes on the same subject… snobs.

I believe that this “snobbism” is a symptom of a disease that infects almost all aspects of life in these United States. The vicious political battles being fought are just the tip of the topic. Should I venture too far from New York City perception of “us” real Americans vs.” them” elitist New Yorkers is palpable. Outside the major urban areas the “illegal immigrant” issue has large sections of this country tied in knots. World-wide, the friction between countries that throw away millions of tons of food and countries lacking any food at all is a bomb waiting to go off. On the malt beverage (beer) front the stakes are not as high but are just a fractious.

Craft Beer vs. Mega-brewers, all-grain homebrewers vs. extract brewers, and “extreme” brewers vs. “to-style” brewers are just a few of the factions bickering in the beer world.

When I put my “food writer” hat on it had best be made of Kevlar. In culinary cosmos the battle between the mega-food producers (I cannot be convinced to call them farmers) and sustainable growers is joined by the “Slow Food” movement and the anti-fois gras people. This is not to leave out the vegan vs. carnivore campaign or the whole-milk brie vs. Cheese Whiz® scuffle.

What do I make of all this? I believe that the inflation of differences to the point of confrontation illustrates only one thing – we live in a nation of smug, self-centered egoists that want it all and want it now!

It is no secret that food priced to sell to those who can least afford it is designed to render profit for the producer rather than nutrition for the consumer. It is no secret that $5.00 spent on beans, tomatoes (yes, from a can) chicken parts and onions can provide two meals (at least) for family of four. It is no secret that $5.00 spent at a processed food provider (read “fast food”) will supply that same family with two large cups of sweet soft drinks, two processed sandwiches and two envelopes of deep fried potatoes. It is also no surprise that the latter is more the norm for impoverished families than the former. It is no mystery why six-packs of beer or soft drinks sold at $5.00 flies out of convenience stores while milk is ignored. It is no mystery why a dozen white sports sox made in Asia and sold at $5.00 outsells better made and longer lasting merchandise manufactured locally. Most of this country is financially squeezed to the point that there is little sympathy for “sustainable farming” and “craft beer.”

Should you have a chance to visit, or attend a James Beard event you will find the answer to the viability of slow-food and sustainable foods. That answer is that those who are wrapped up in the issues are comprised of those who can afford to spend $15.00 a pound for grass-fed beef and $10.00 a pint for their organic beer.

This results in the rise of factions that foster friction rather than understanding. While I applaud the efforts of small brewers and farmers to give back to their communities through civic programs that enhance the lives of the less fortunate I find the “us” vs. “them” mentality persists. I believe it persists because most of us want it to. People want, dare I say it, need to feel unique. Unable to affect daily lives in any real way people cling to icons and symbols.

Financially strapped and stressed out, the easy-way is the only alternative. Fast food is easier than spending the time cooking the meal (if there is the time). Price is the answer to almost all consumer purchases. The majority of consumers to not have the luxury of paying the price for crafted anything. Those who can afford to seek out the crafted food, beer or clothing, who can afford to support “Slow Food” and James Beard Foundation can afford to sneer at consumers of mass-produced products… And that’s why they call them “snobs.”

What is the answer to the warped perception created by this situation? The answer is to drop the “in your face” attitudes that is perceived as “snobbism”. To paraphrase Ronald Regan, “Take down your signs that say “Hooray for our side!” and replace them with a hand shake and an attempt to communicate on a personal level. (Almost every brewer who meets the definition of “craft brewer” knows the routine… sales are made one bottle at a time, one person at a time and has to be maintained.)

A few weeks ago I met with Sam Calgione and Marnie Old, the co-authors of “He said Beer… She said Wine.” (http://www.beerbasics.com/009 003/009 003 beerbasics visits.htm ) Their book takes the beer vs. wine snobbism and actually transforms the battle into a love fest. (Don’t tell them I said that.) The interview ended up confirming that situation. “Beer” folks have a lot to learn from “wine” people and “wine” people have a lot to learn from “beer” people. Now if these two can do that there is a glimmer of hope for the rest of the situation.

Cheers!

Peter LaFrance

A taste of… Orlio Organic Common Ale

South Burlington,

Vermont

USA

Preface:

The good folks at Orlio/Magic Hat have, once again, sent me a sample of their Orlio Organic common ale. It arrived well protected. (Memo to me… How “green” is their special effort shipping?)

While the sample returns to serving temperature, after a week in my refrigerator, I will make no effort to either read the included informational material or my own tasting notes from last year.

I have a difficult time rationalizing the extra effort involved with brewing beer from ingredients insured to be nurtured, harvested and processed without the involvement of processed chemicals. If there is a biochemical comparison showing significant differences between what is called organic beer and the flagship brand from the brewery where the organic beer is produced I would very much like to see it.

The ability, over time, of the human system to render, retain and be affected by insignificant trace elements is empirically evident. However, a carbonated malt beverage produced from organic commodities has not yet been declared significantly different from carbonated malt beverage products produced from commodities exposed to processed chemicals during growth, harvest, and processing for market and use in brewing.

That said, I offer the following tasting notes…

Appearance:

This is a burnished copper colored brew that is relatively effervescent and is crowned with a very light tan Sandy Rocky head composed of small to medium sized bubbles. The lace on the glass is most becoming.

Aroma:

Almost as soon as I opened this bottle, there was a sense of hop that bordered on the citric. The first sensation is almost of raspberry. The second sensation is very citric almost between grapefruit and Mandarin. Between lip and sip there is no suggestion as to either the sweetness nor the bitterness of this beer.

Mouth feel:

There is a medium mouth feel to this beer, as it is neither overt carbonated nor spiked with a particularly aggressive hop.

Flavor:

The flavors in this beer take a great deal of time to develop. The first whit cool refreshing sensations are overwhelmed by neither the hops nor the malts in this beer. The malts offer more of a refreshing sensation rather than a sweet sensation. On aspiration, the hop flavors develop from an almost mandarin orange through fresh mowed hay, and finishing on the palate, as more of a metallic sensation than a bitter effect.

Finish:

This beer is no uninvited guest. It is welcoming. It is not offensive, and it leaves before it gets stale.

Comments:

To these tasting notes, I have little real understanding of the effect of organic commodities, and produce in the production of beer. Therefore the origins of the ingredients to this brew were inconsequential to me. What was important to me was the combination and interplay of the flavors of this brew.

Because the word is considered a derogatory term in many circles I hesitate to use the word light. However, in the following I do believe it is perfect in context… This is a fine of light ale.

The brewery Site: http://www.orlio.net/

What others say…

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A taste of… Sierra Nevada Southern Hemisphere Harvest Fresh Hop Ale

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.

Chico, CA

USA

Preface:

After seeing their press announcement on the release of this brew I contacted the folks at Sierra Nevada and received this sample for tasting.

Appearance:

This brew has a bright red copper color and is topped with a very rocky head of medium to large bubbles that produce a very light mocha colored head.

Aroma:

The first impression was of citric notes. Then there were impressions of the aroma of a newly mowed lawn, followed by a touch of roasted malt at the very end.

Mouth feel:

There is a medium mouth feel, with only a slight flavor spike imparted by the carbonation.

Flavor:

That moment between lip and to sip is the first time that you become very aware of the hop contents of this beer. It’s a very subtle almost metallic sensation. What malt flavor there is seems to be embarrassed by a very brash combination of barnyard and butter brought to the table by the hops. The “barnyard” is not attributable to the yeast as in having wild yeast in the fermentation. It is more exactly, reminiscent of fresh baled hay just after it has been broken up for feeding. As for the butter sensation, it is not a diacetyl, rather coming closer to a hard toffee candy flavor.

Finish:

The finish is where the malt has its most impressive moment. Still in the supporting role, it allows the hops to finish off without appearing too brutal.

Comments:

It is now evident to what links the American Brewer will go to provide hops for its beer. The obvious admonition that “necessity is the mother of invention” is something that I am sure small Brewers will be hearing for at least the next two years. It appears the people at Sierra Nevada have found a unique answer and developed a unique product. Should the New Zealanders find another market for their hops in the United States, removing the unique characteristic of this brew, Sierra Nevada be quite pleased with this product.

The brewery Site: http://www.sierranevada.com/

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